New raw materials

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During the same period, some houses specialized in the production or the importation of raw materials of vegetal or animal origin. They produced or imported musk from China and Tibet, rosewood essence from Cayenne, Ylang-ylang essence from the Philippines, etc. Sperm whale oil (or spermaceti) [1], better characterized and refined, started being used in cosmetic preparations.

Besides the major houses, small entrepreneurs allowed Parisian perfumers to assemble products, register patents and successfully commercialize them. This was for example the case of perfumer Sinfar with the product called Vinaigre Napoléon.

Lautier factories located in Grasse (France). La Parfumerie française et l’Art dans la présentation. Paris: La Revue des marques de la parfumerie et de la savonnerie, 1925.   BIU Santé Pharmacie : cote RES 8536. Antoine Chiris House located in Grasse (France). Enfleurage workshop. La Parfumerie française et l’Art dans la présentation. Paris: La Revue des marques de la parfumerie et de la savonnerie, 1925.   BIU Santé Pharmacie : cote RES 8536.

Antoine Chiris factories located in Boufarik (Algeria). Les Parfums de France, 1936.   BIU Santé Pharmacie : cote P 15268.

Invoice header of the Roure-Bertrand Factory.   © Collection privée.

Pharmaceutical pot of sperm whale oil (XVIIIth century).   © Société d’histoire de la pharmacie / Photography: Elie Bzoura 2009.

Ylang Ylang plant (Cananga odorata). Francisco Manuel Blanco. Flora de Filipinas … Gran edicion. Manila: 1877-1883, Atlas I.

"Vinaigre Napoléon" of perfumer Sinfar. Patent dated from 1840. The free INPI Database © Institut national de la propriété industrielle.

"Vinaigre Napoléon" of perfumer Sinfar. Patent dated from 1840. The free INPI Database © Institut national de la propriété industrielle.