During that period, the skin became a more and more important objet of study. The role of its pH on its defenses and its capacity to fight against bacteria and microorganisms was studied. So were its global chemical composition and its absorption capacities. But the vision remained that of chemists. As early as 1941, René-Maurice Gattefossé published a treatise on the physicochemical properties of the skin. With his co-authors, he classified skins as hydrated, dehydrated, oily and alipic. He stated that “a hydrated skins give fresh, firm, supple, elastic epidermis, not prone to puckering and rictus.”

In spite of the war, trademarks kept being registered. Thus, in October 1942, Mademoiselle Suzanne Perichon from Paris (who had created the pre-war perfume “Secret de Suzanne”) registered two trademarks – with the circumstantial names “Black Market” and “Barter” – for perfumery, hygiene, beauty and makeup products.