The notions of active ingredient and vector ⁽³⁾

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Oils, vegetal extracts (purer or issued from traditional medicines) and vegetal fractions [1] became as many ingredients whose caring activity was determined by in silico tests or tests on skin cell cultures. Unsaponifiable avocado oil, collagen, RNA [2], shea butter, sorbitol, alpha-bisabolol, amino-acids, jojoba oils, grape seed polyphenols, flower nectars, beech buds, etc.: the “natural’ aspect of these ingredients was considered as reassuring. For several decades, natural substances and their biological activity were the two pillars of new research.