The notions of active ingredient and vector (5)

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Guerlain "Alphabella", a skin rejuvenation care with AHA. 1995.

 
Collection privée. © Guerlain.

Advertising for "Vegeles ® AHA". Parfums, Cosmétiques, Arômes, 1995.

 
BIU Santé Pharmacie : cote P 10167.

1992 marked the beginning of AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acides), a market driven by American brands. At first, French brands waited and observed. The potentially irritant effects of AHA incited them to be cautious. Soon new, milder AHA came into use: AHA grafted on a fatty chain, a macromolecule, allowed the transitory blocking of the acid function and a diminished penetration while maintaining a softer exfoliation activity.

Advertising for Elisabeth Arden "Ceramide Advanced Time Complex Capsules", an innovative anti-aging care. 1992.

 
Collection privée. © Elisabeth Arden.

Advertising for Vichy "Nutrilogie".

 
Collection privée. © Vichy.

Advertising for Rochas "Futuressence", an anti-aging radiance treatment without AHA. 1999.

About Rochas
Collection privée. © Rochas.
Research on the lipids of the intercellular cement of the epidermis showed the importance of specific lipids (ceramides) to guarantee the barrier properties of the skin. The latter, be they of natural or synthetic origins, were thus provided by new anti-aging and restorative creams.
Horny layer architecture.
 
© LVMH Recherche.
In vitro prepared horny layer for cosmetic tests. 1994.
 
© LVMH Recherche.